(Big Danger in Little Osaka #21, 2009)
Coming to Japan is like stepping
into a parallel pop-cultural universe, where suddenly quasi-ironic urban slang
and an extensive library of Pulp Fiction quotes
no longer hold any cultural capital. Unfamiliar celebrities adorn billboards,
trendy stores blare the hottest tracks you’ve never heard, and schoolchildren
wear bags emblazoned with strange new anime
characters. If you do see a familiar Western face, they will be advertising
a product you’ve never heard of: Cameron Diaz sells Softbank phones, Tommy Lee
Jones is the spokesman for Boss coffee and Beyonce sells Crystal Geyser bottled
water (“this is my water”) in a
commercial that she would never dream of releasing in the United States.
The fashion in Japan, or at least
in Osaka, is completely different and much more extreme, with styles including
faux-Victorian gothic, old-school fifties’ rocker, and what can only be
described as ‘the 80s in space’. Big hair is still in, and guys can look as
androgynous as they please without getting beaten up. Fashion is taken very
seriously: you always see girls re-applying their makeup on the train and guys
readjusting their hair-dos in public bathrooms. While Japanese people are
generally on the smaller side, there are still some pretty strange ideas about
weight. I saw a magazine advertisement for a weight-loss programme: girls were
going from “wow, that’s quite skinny” to “Jesus, she needs medical attention.”
One girl had dropped from 51 to 38 kilograms. I have also been told that it is
also considered attractive to have a ‘small face.’ Whatever that means, it’s
something that apparently most Westerners don’t have, as many of my friends
have been told “wow, you have a big face!” by their students.
Japan has the second largest
music industry in the world, and it is largely self-contained since no other
countries speak the Japanese language. You can find Japanese recordings in
almost any genre (including a surprisingly extensive range of noise music, or
‘Japanoise’), leading to the feeling to that you are looking in on an alternate
version of the history of popular music. The two big genres are, of course,
J-pop and J-rock, which are inescapable. Somehow, the boy band has not yet died
in Japan, and they still provide bland, nasty music and hunky guys for schoolgirls
to swoon over; as one of my students told me, when writing about her favourite
act, “EXILE is studmuffin group”. The hottest J-rock act right now is possibly
the creepily-named ‘Mr. Children’, though I prefer J-rock mainstays ‘Bump of
Chicken’ myself.
Japanese television is where the
pop-culture of Japan all fuses together in one big sticky mess. One of the most
popular formats is the variety show, where an ever-changing line-up of
flavour-of-the-day models, actors and pop idols (collectively known as tarento, or ‘talent’) gather together to
take part in bizarre games and ritual humiliation in front of a studio
audience. Turn on the TV any given time and at least one channel will be
showing this hugely entertaining format. Of course, the best parts of Japanese TV are the ad breaks: apparently Japanese commercials are limited to
fifteen seconds each, so each one is an audiovisual assault of fast movement,
celebrity endorsements and one-second jingles. Unlike back home, I often
channel surf so that I watch nothing but ads,
in the hope that I will see that one with the talking kangaroo, or that one
where steam shoots out of Tommy Lee Jones’ ears.
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